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March 21, 2017

Exclusive interview with Mark Schwarz, Founder & CEO of VAULT

Mr. Woolfe had the privilege of meeting the VAULT team during the fall of 2016 and managed to catch their Founder & CEO Mark Schwarz for an exclusive interview whilst he embarks upon a world tour in the lead up to Basel World 2017.

Mr. Woolfe (MWF): So Mark, what does the VAULT brand signify? 

Mark Schwarz (MS): First and foremost, VAULT is a brand which is not about timekeeping, but time itself. Time is extremely precious which no one can control and everyone has a unique perception of it. This is the DNA of VAULT.

 

MWF: Tell us more about the VAULT journey and where the inspiration came from?

MS: VAULT evolved from a deep passion for watches. It all started off with my first Flik Flak watch, which I got as a present from my parents. At the beginning I was interested in prestigious brands such as Rolex, Patek and AP, though at some point I went a bit crazy and fell in love with brands which where all about pushing the boundaries in terms of displaying time. I like to compare it with diving; on the surface you will see the “normal” fish which everyone has seen before, but the deeper you dive, the more exotic and exciting the creatures are.

 

MWF: Was there a person or turning point in your career that prompted you to explore the beginnings of VAULT?

MS: Yes, it actually all started off in a beer garden in Munich! It was a bright sunny day in summer 2013. My spouse and I were having a great time enjoying a beer, when after months of thinking about creating my own watch I came up with this concept of having a fully independent watch movement. As the movement in our watch would not be externally controlled it would symbolically represent time, which we cannot control. It was unbelievable, and I could see all the puzzle pieces come together like an animation movie unraveling in my head. I knew at the time that it was a special moment, although it took some time to understand the full magnitude.

 

MWF: Being Swiss based, how do you intend to break into what is essentially a tough industry?

MS: Great question. Nobody has been waiting for another Swiss watch brand and with the industry facing challenging times, you could be tempted to think this might be completely wrong time to launch a new brand! We however, believe the opposite is true based on the following three points:

  1. With our unique concept, VAULT is not just creating watches, but a new chapter in watch making.
  2. By creating a watch which changes its appearance whenever you set the time, we are pushing the boundaries of exclusivity and personal connection to a watch.
  3. Every VAULT watch is commissioned, which (in my opinion) is the highest level of luxury. It also allows us to connect directly with the fans of our brand and build long lasting relationships with our customers.

 

MWF: Where do you see the Swiss and mechanical watch industry moving innovation wise? Thoughts on the digital watch space?

MS: I believe a lot of brands in the Swiss watch industry need to innovate in terms of their business model. It is especially important for small independent brands to leverage their story through social media channels, making it now easier than ever to connect directly with watch enthusiasts around the world. This is crucial in allowing serious watch collectors to not only interact directly with the brands they like, but to know the key people behind them.

As for digital watches, I see them as a huge opportunity and not a threat. Digital watches will attract more and more young people to be interested in watches, who to some extent, will then want to eventually upgrade to a mechanical watch or wear both.

 

 

“The dial had to have certain design cues reminiscent of a bank vault door, protecting precious time behind it.”

 

MWF: How has the watch community responded to the unique concept of the V1?

MS: Pretty surprised and excited, as it is not very often that something so fundamentally different like the V1 appears on the market. We could not have had a better response and we cannot wait to see the reactions when everyone sees the watch in person this Autumn.

 

MWF: Who would you say is your ideal customer? In other words who in your mind wears your brand / watch?

MS: Our customers are affluent watch collectors, who love exclusive mechanical watches with unique time displays. The majority already possess an impressive collection of watches and have a solid overall knowledge of the industry. As VAULT is a start-up, we appeal to such collectors who are not looking for big names, but for independent watch brands that produce exclusive watches which cannot be seen on every street corner. We have found that our customers are not interested in status symbols, rather strive for works of art with a higher meaning.

 

MWF: What is the V1?

MS: The V1 is first and foremost a tribute to the preciousness of time. It is mechanical art which boasts a couple of breathtaking world premieres, all having one purpose; to let us appreciate and experience time in a different way.

 

MWF: What was the blueprint when designing the V1?

MS: The vision for the design was simple, although very challenging. The V1 needed to be mechanical art representing the preciousness of time. In order to cast this vision into reality, we created the watch from the inside out starting with the fully autonomous movement representing time itself.

The dial had to have certain design cues reminiscent of a bank vault door “protecting” precious time behind it. The tonneau shaped case was a must for me because it showcases the exotic way the V1 operates, just like a great frame for a special painting. Most of the components are made by Uhrteil AG, the company of Andreas Strehler. He has created the in-house movement for the V1 and depending on the case material, it will be made by Uhrteil AG or by specialized Swiss companies.

 

MWF: What defines its uniqueness / DNA?

MS: The V1 is quite special and proudly showcases the following features:

Unique way of setting our watch – when unlocking a bank vault door, you turn the combination dial until the wheel notches are in the correct position to open the door. The same is true for the V1. In order to set the watch you first have to rotate the whole movement, which is placed in a cage which can be turned 360° in both directions to set the minutes. In a second step, the fully adjustable dial is turned in order to read the hours.

A new way of reading time – while the minutes are displayed in a “classic” manner, by way of a conventional but nevertheless striking minute hand; we have gone down a different path in terms of displaying the hours. The hours are displayed on the gears and indicated by a sapphire crystal disc above them that is partially smoked and gradually fades in a circle for a transparent look. The line between the smoked and transparent parts is what is used to indicate the hour.

The first watch with a fully independent watch movement – as a constant reminder that we cannot control time, we have created the first full independent watch movement. The watch movement therefore stands symbolically for time itself allowing us to create a unique calibre, as we do not the restrictions of those with a normal movement.

The only watch which changes its appearance – everyone has a unique perception of time and we love this aspect. Technically time is constant, though we can still feel time flying or nearly standing still depending on the situation we are in. This fascinating perspective is captured by creating the first watch which changes its appearance whenever you set the watch, creating a very personal relationship between the watch and the wearer. The watch will never look the same and every watch will therefore have a unique look, which is constantly evolving. We think it is pure magic!

 

MWF: Amazing stuff! On a random note, what book are you currently reading?

MS: “The Naked CEO” by Alex Malley

 

MWF: And finally, what advice would you give to budding watchmakers out there?

MS: If you really want to create a fundamentally different watch, forget everything you know about watch making and start dreaming.

 

Your V1 is available for order and commissioned directly from VAULT. Full further details can be found on their fantastic website www.vault.swiss and enquires to info@vault.swiss

October 11, 2016

Smartwatches vs. Mechanical: Are the old ways the best?

For those of you who have been hiding under a rock, September marked the global product release date for Apple, ranked as the world’s most valuable brand (Forbes 2016) and as part of their updated offering seeing the release of their Series 2 Apple Watch.

Sources indicate that smartwatch vendors shipped 3.5 million units in Q2, down from over 5 million the previous year. Interestingly, of these figures apparently Apple shipped 1.3 million smartwatches so clearly being the major force behind such sales. Most smartwatches price themselves around £600 mark, though are they really what they are cracked up to be? Mr. Woolfe researched into what the pros and cons are so you can sleep easy.

Mr. Woolfe’s 7 key points to consider
  1. Charging issues – consumers find charging their smartwatches difficult or even boring. Choosing an automatic self-winding or kinetic watch simply means a small amount of physical movement to get it ticking.
  1. Technology – as with any hardware or software, things can go wrong. No such issues with mechanical watches, however, the inner workings will be subject to a service around every five or so years
  1. Longevity – servicing means that a mechanical watch in theory will last for a very long time. The materials used   should stand the test of time, with vintage watches out there still functioning with all of their original parts. Lifecyles    for smartwatches are probably eight years max with the battery difficult to replace, so in essence the kit is pretty    much a disposable product.
  1. Cost & Materials – although on the exterior smartwatches can share a mix of metals (steel and precious), the insides are clearly digitally orientated. The collaboration with Apple and Hermes is interesting example of two powerhouse brands aiming for the best in luxury elements, although with obvious limitations. With mechanical timepieces, the sky   is the limit for those who can afford it, so intricacy and use of unique or rare materials is down to the watchmakers imagination.

applewatch_hermes_claspstrap

  1. Versatility – with digital there are multiple capabilities with the techonology covering fitness data, NFC and contactless pay. Having said that, customised add-ons to the caseback of mechanical watches like Chronos or the BarclayPay loop in the leather strap of certain Mondaine watches, bridge such gaps.
  1. Customisation – mechanical watches nowadays can not only demonstrate their exclusivity through being limited or numbered pieces, but also have the ability to be fully individualised. Some great companies include Bamford, Titan Black and Pro Hunter, all unique in their style and quality. Digital does have the ability to accessorise or even change the dials in a much more convenient manner i.e. TAG Heur Connected, however, some other brands lack in HD pixels so therefore detract on the true beauty of the real thing.
  1. Investment – even a decent chronograph by a reputable Swiss brand will mean a mechanical timepiece will appreciate in its intrinsic value providing it is kept in good condition. The same cannot be guaranteed with a digital watch, unless  it has some sort of collectors appeal from its previous owner i.e. celebrity association.

 

Overall, if you are geared more towards a wear and tear sports or fitness focused watch, the smartwatch might be the option for you and even showing signs of targeting the “Luxe-wear” market for those who wish to spend on expensive materials. However, hands down, if you are looking for sophistication, pedigree and a DNA history of a true timepiece the mechanical watch clearly wins.

 

rolex_yachmaster2_rental_luxuryonloan_mrwoolfe

One thing to remember is that cost wise a luxury mechanical watch is not out of reach, as renting with Mr. Woolfe allows you to achieve that lifestyle without breaking the bank!